MINI GUIDE
Thank you for purchasing Goldenrod Gardens dahlia tubers!
FIRST things FIRST….
Open up your order and inspect it. If there are any issues, please email us within 5 days of receipt: customerservice@goldenrodgardens.net NEVER SOCIAL MEDIA!
-EMAILS MUST INCLUDE: relevant order number & clear photo(s) of the vegetative end (the narrow end) with the ID tag attached and legible. Multiple angles are fine if you aren’t sure.
If you aren’t ready to plant, store the bagged tubers in a cool dark spot away from freezing and direct light. Tubers can be planted when the soil is above 60ºF- same time tomatoes can be safely planted.
Now that we’ve gotten that taken care of….
Greetings! I believe that when it comes to growing anything, experience is the best way to learn, but this little guide will hopefully help you along the way in regards to growing dahlias for cut flowers & floral design.This is a ‘mini book’ & not intended to cover all aspects of growing dahlias. For that, I recommend the American Dahlia Society’s website- www.dahlia.org. It is loaded with great planting and general growing info. Happy growing!
TIPS FOR GREAT CUT FLOWERS…
DISBUDDING- removing the smaller buds on each side of the main flower bud at an early stage (when main bud about 1/2in) will encourage larger flowers. Disbudding is also helpful for many waterlily forms as those tend to produce side buds whose stems shoot above the main flower.
HARVEST STAGE varies among the different forms and I like to make the most of vase life (which averages 4-7 days)
Varieties with a lot of petals- Ball, Formal, Informal, Cactus and Stellar forms: wait until the first 4 rows of outer petals have lifted from the bud and peeled themselves backwards.
Varieties with only a few petals- Collarette, Anemone, Orchid forms: these can be cut at full bud stage because they will open. Another option for these is cutting a long stem with multiple flowers at different stages- then you get the initial show of the main flower as well as more opening over a few days.
Varieties somewhere in the middle- Waterlily, Semi Cactus and Laciniated forms: I often cut these earlier than those with more petals as they tend to open more quickly.
How to cut a long dahlia stem and encourage new long stems.
PUTTING DAHLIAS TO BED
Your dahlias are ready for a break because there has either been a frost (zones 3-8) OR they have bloomed themselves out and it is now too hot (zones 9-10). Make sure everyone is labeled!
CUT DOWN to 2-4 inches above the soil line. If you are in zones 8-10, they can spend their dormancy in the ground and will wake up when it cools off again several months later. Those of you in zone 7 are on the fence for winter tuber survival in the ground; well drained soil, no nibbling critters, a good mulch and deeper planting determine survival where temps regularly drop below 32ºF.
Although you can leave the clumps in the ground for as long as they survive, I recommend digging them up and splitting the clumps after 2 or 3 years because as the clumps become larger in the ground, they will eventually flower less.
DIGGING: If you are digging your tuber clumps, let them ‘cure’ in the ground for 2-3 weeks after you’ve cut them back.
Carefully lift the clumps from the soil. We use shovels, some use a forked implement (our soil is too heavy for that and I think the shovel helps prevent broken necks.)
-To deter excessive shriveling, leave residual soil on the clumps if you aren’t immediately dividing.
-If you are dividing: wash, divide, and immediately pack them into coarse vermiculite or wood shavings in a container without covering the top. Store between 40-55ºF and check periodically, removing any rotted tubers if needed.
(a few) PLANTING DO’S AND DONT’S
DO- Plant tubers when the soil has warmed to at least 65ºF. They don’t like cold soil- it increases the chance of rot. Plant when you would plant tomatoes
DO- Put out slug and snail bait- ESPECIALLY if there is surrounding mulch and low vegetation for them to hide in.
DO- Provide good support for the plants- even the short ones- it makes a great difference!
DO- Provide supplemental water during dry spells- after the plants are a foot or so tall-Tailor to your needs
DO- keep your eyes out for pests and fungus and treat accordingly…either can get out of hand.
DON’T- Plant tubers in retail potting soil that has fertilizer added (like Miracle Grow)- it can burn them up. A soilless mix of peat, perlite & vermiculite is fine.
DON”T- water dormant tubers, whether in a pot or the ground, until green growth emerges from the soil (unless you are in a very hot, dry place). Watering dormant tubers cancels my guarantee and they will not be replaced. Feeder roots drink water, not tubers.
DON”T- use fertilizer high in nitrogen; too much and you get giant, lanky plants, fewer flowers and weaker tubers
DON’T plant tubers in heavy clay soil- they hate it!
HARVEST TIME- The best time to harvest is when temperatures are low- at least below 80ºF but 75º and below is better. Early morning with the dew or just before sundown when the sugars are most concentrated in the flowers.
Have your bucket(s) ready. They need to be clean enough to eat out of, filled 1/3 with clean water-air temperature is fine. I’ve found that adding a floral preservative to the water at this time is VERY helpful. I never use hot water.
Cut your stems and drop them into the bucket. That ‘drop’ into the bucket will help force water into any hollow stems. Keep your bucket out of direct sun.
Condition your harvest. If you have a flower cooler, place them in 40-44ºF, If you don’t, find the coolest place you have and leave them there for 12 hours. This helps them recover and the stems hydrate before you use them.
⁃Cut stems of any plant species drink the most water within the first 36 hours and once your flowers are utilized, check to make sure their water is at a good level.